
Photo by Stephany Seay, Roam Free Nation.
Roam Free Nation co-founders, Jaedin Medicine Elk, and yours truly, Stephany Seay, ventured out on patrol in the Gardiner Basin. We had originally made plans to head to West Yellowstone after a family group migrated out of Yellowstone and into danger. As we were beginning to make our plans, the buffalo vanished. They had not been seen for days, and we got word of twelve buffalo (on two separate occasions) being killed by ‘hunters’ in Gardiner. We suspected more were on their way, so we changed our plans and headed to Gardiner, wishing we could be in both Basins at once.

Photo by Stephany Seay, Roam Free Nation.
Of course, as we were just about to reach Livingston, less than an hour away from Gardiner, sure enough we got a call from our Horse Butte boots on the ground that the family group had shown back up and they were under attack. Treaty hunters from the Nez Perce tribe had found them. That family group had started out twenty strong. But by the time the Nez Perce killers were done, only four were left standing. A celebration for the killers, a mourning loss for us and the buffalo.
These buffalo are from the imperiled Central herd. Descendants of the 23 buffalo who saved themselves from extinction so long ago. For many years now, Yellowstone National Park has cautioned against any killing in West Yellowstone’s Hebgen Basin. The Central herd buffalo migrate into both the Gardiner Basin and the Hebgen Basin, so they are doubly impacted by mismanagement activities. Being that they are the only herd to migrate into the Hebgen Basin, ‘hunters’ know they are taking from this at-risk population. Why, if you say you want more buffalo on a larger landscape, and you say they are your relatives, would you gun nearly every single one down? There is such a lack of reciprocity, such a lack of respect and care. They are facilitating the destruction of the Central herd. Just because you have a right to do it, it doesn’t make it right.
Horse Butte is the Central herd’s favored calving grounds. Calving season will begin in just a few short weeks, but the Nez Perce hunt doesn’t even end until mid-April. No doubt, there will be buffalo calves who will never be born. No doubt many of those calves will be found in their mother’s gut piles. Horse Butte is also part of the Central herd’s hard-won year-round habitat. But, instead of getting to express themselves on the landscape and begin to re-establish themselves, they are constantly met with gunfire.

grazing peacefully west of Buffalo Plateau, inside Yellowstone National Park.
Photo by Stephany Seay, Roam Free Nation.
Meanwhile, it turned out it was a good thing we did go to Gardiner. At first, outside of the quarantine pens, there weren’t any buffalo to be found in the Gardiner Basin. So we ventured south, into the Park, expecting to see scores of buffalo. There weren’t many to be found, but there was sign everywhere. We ventured back north and headed up towards Mammoth Hot Springs where we finally ran into a few family groups. That gave us cause for worry because it meant they could head north and into danger at any time. We hung out with them for a while, Jaedin got some footage and I got some photos. And we just basked in their presence, breathing in their scent, listening to them breathe as they gently grazed along. As we made our way down the steep and windy road back to the entrance, we spotted a few more family groups. Our worry increased as these guys were definitely starting to head north. But we held on to hope because it has been such a dangerously mild winter there has been nearly no snow, so no major drive to migrate to lower elevations.

The complete lack of snow makes travel easy for them.
Photo by Stephany Seay, Roam Free Nation.
The following morning we headed out and did a recon in the Gardiner Basin. No buffalo. So we took the opportunity to head back into the park and go check out the Blacktail Plateau and Lamar Valley. On this day we started seeing lots of buffalo in all the places we had expected to see them the day before. But it was so strange. There was zero snow and it was already greening-up. Much too soon for this time of year, but in the short term it’s keeping the buffalo safe.
We came across a pretty big group west of Buffalo Plateau. Among them were pronghorn, creatures you usually don’t see that deep in the park this time of year. Again, the mild winter is changing everyone’s behavior.
On our way back home we started seeing more and more buffalo south of Mammoth Hot Springs, poised for a north-bound migration, into danger. To the north, just a few miles away, lies Yellowstone’s Stephens Creek buffalo trap, where buffalo are lured or hazed to be captured for slaughter or quarantine (domestication). And beyond that, just a mile further north, they are met with a wall of rifles.

in the Gardiner Basin, Yellowstone National Park.
Photo by Stephany Seay, Roam Free Nation.
The following morning we met up with our friend Joe DeMare. Many of you may be familiar with Joe. He produces the podcast, For A Green Future, and he has interviewed me many times over many years. Joe flew in from Ohio to spend some time with us in the field.
We checked the Gardiner Basin and showed Joe around. We took a walk through the killing fields of Beattie Gulch. It was quite depressing. The whole landscape was littered with bleached buffalo bones – a testament to the massacres that take place almost every winter. We saw no buffalo in the Basin, so we headed back into the Park. There were even more buffalo than the day before. We were even treated to a couple of coyotes dining on a carcass. We went all the way into the Lamar again, which was teeming with buffalo. Spending the better part of our day in the park, we headed back out to check the Basin. Our hearts sank as we came north towards the gate to see a good sized family group near the entrance gate, and a group of bulls heading north through the Roosevelt Arch. This was not good. Making our way north through the Basin, we came across a family group of 18 barely a quarter mile away from the trap. It was late in the day, and the buffalo were bedded down, so we headed to our rooms.

Soon, if the hunters can’t contain themselves, bones may be all that’s left of the last wild herds.
Photo by Stephany Seay, Roam Free Nation.
The next morning — the day Jaedin and I had to leave — we checked on the group by the trap and they were just a little bit closer to it. Hating to leave, we were at least relieved that there were no hunters or game wardens around. And Joe would be staying another night so would be able to check on them later and on the following day. After we got home, Joe texted me at work to say the group by the trap was no longer there, they had moved deeper into the park, and the group of bulls had started heading a bit south, towards safety.
It’s hard always wishing the buffalo would turn around from the direction they want to go, in order to get to safer ground. And as Jaedin said, “We really want them to go north, just with more rights and protection.”
































